Somebody bring me some water
22.04.2007 - 01.05.2007 30 °C
Our non ac bus has large windows that have, thus far, offered a pleasant breeze in times of need. As we enter Botswanan and journey across the Kalahari Desert our transport has been transformed into a fan forced oven. It’s too hot to read and my Ipod is out of juice (mainly because I fell asleep with it on this morning - Doh). It is becoming more and more apparent that the greenhouse effect or some other force of nature is conspiring against us. Etosha was too wet, the Okavango was too dry, the Chobe and Zambezi rivers were unseasonably close to breaking their banks. Against all odds we have soldiered on in search of both beautiful fauna and beautiful landscapes.
We started with your classic Mokoro trip on the Okavango. Travelling a few hours into the delta we found a suitable campsite and set up shop. By the time lunch rolled around it was hot. I‘m talking really really hot. Our travel doctor told us not to swim anywhere in Africa. Something about a parasite that burrows under the skin. We chose to take local wisdom into account and passed the heat of the day with intermittent dips in the delta. Don’t worry Mum’s, we checked for hippos and crocs first.
Once the heat of the day had passed we donned our walkin shoes and headed to the local Hippo hole. Shortly into the walk we were stopped for the obligatory “in case of emergency” talk. Now I’m not one to doubt my own physical ability but I was hoping for more of a defence than run in a zig zag line. I was tempted to ask why we were choosing to ignore 100,000 or so years of man vs animal evolution but the prospect of a leopard dropping on me seemed remote at best so I decided to keep my thoughts to myself and take my chances. Besides I figured I only had to run faster than one person. Safe as houses. We saw some hippos but it was from a distance. I was hoping to get a bit closer.
The next morning we rose before the sun for a game walk around our campsite. It was worth getting up just for the sunrise. We saw plenty of cool stuff the highlight of which was a small family of big elephants that meandered to within about 50 meters of us. It’s was pretty impressive as was the sunset on our second night in the delta.
As I mentioned last post we are on a pretty tight budget and we need to choose our additional activities carefully. We decided that an hour flight over the delta was worth $75 USD so we locked it in and took to the skies.
After seeing the density of elephants in the Delta it wasn’t too much of a surprise when we came across this herd on the side of the highway.
The game viewing highlight had to be the Chobe River. Any more animals and I would suspect they weren’t there of their own accord. Every 100m there was something different. Plenty of elephants, hippos, bok, bok and more bok, crocodiles and enough birds to drive Bob Way into a twitchers frenzy.
These ones are for Bob. What are they?
At the moment Vic Falls is at it’s highest levels since the 50’s. More than 9 million litres plummet over the falls every second! It would be easy to get distracted by the 1001 adventure activities you can do; bungy, zip lines, canyon swings, river boarding, etc. We were really keen to raft the Zambezi but with that much water pushing through the lower gorge it was well and truly out of the question. I guess it’s a good thing because it brings you back to the reason for being here. We got up early (sleeping in isn’t the same when you’ve been on an uncomfortable sleeping mat for two weeks) and got to the falls shortly after sunrise. You can see the mist and hear the thunder from all over the town but as you walk through the National Park the sound becomes ferocious and the ground begins to vibrate. As we walked along the opposite side of the gorge the wind changed and within seconds we were completely drenched. Even though the falls are only a few meters away at times it completely disappears behind the wall of spray. It well and truly deserves its status as a natural wonder of the world.
The little dot in the photo below that looks like someone pointing at the mist is Nat.
With rafting out of the equation we decided to view the falls from a different perspective. The question was Micro light, Ultra light or Helicopter? Ultra light was the winner. Needless to say the view from above was spectacular. To see the whole river plunging over from above was awe inspiring. The photos don’t do it justice.
Botswana and Vic Falls were awesome. They’re friendly, have plenty of wildlife and many beautiful landscapes. It was hard to only use this many photos but, as always, if you like the photos you can check out our album at
Arriving in Vic Falls spelt the end of our overland tour. It was just the right length. Camping is fun, for a while. Now it’s time to experience the African public transport system… Next stop??? The Kingdom of Zamunda?
How's the serenity?
Lots o' love,
Ev and Nat