Mysore, Bangalore, Varanasi and Darjeeling

In a second attempt to make up time we invested more money in India's cab system with a 6 hour trip to Bangalore via Mysore to see the Maharajahs Palace. Definitely worth the the stop not only to stretch the legs but the palace itself is spectacular. On first inspection the outside is magnificent but what we found inside made the outside seem plain. It is so intricate and beautiful that it took 15 years to build, many of the features imported from Europe.

There's nothing like being frisked to help you remember that you're not in Oz anymore. Even though we've been frisked a few times during our trip thus far - we didn't head to the movies in Bangalore expecting it. Especially since we went to see Happy Feet. Happy feet was part of our half time detox in Bangalore. Other features of the 24 hour program were McDonald's x 2, Shopping in a mall and hot water.

After Bangalore we fly to Varanasi where, at the airport, we ran into more union heavies. This time they were protecting the lucrative Airport city run from those dastardly auto rickshaw drivers. We didn't cave in to the exorbitant prices and went on a mission to get a better deal. We found a rickshaw driver dropping someone off. He was seemed keen to take us until the union heavies started yelling at him and off he went. Our resolve strengthened and we marched out of the Airport complex into rural India to track down a fair price. Even when we found a willing driver at a good price he still had to pay the airport heavies a 50Rs cut of the 150rs fare.

Our Hotel was just behind the most southern Ghat and was a great starting point for an arvo stroll along the Ganges. Varanasi is a really interesting mix of cultures and religions. I find the religious mix really interesting in India. Not only do you have your ghats for all the different types of Hindu Gods you also have Islamic and Buddhist Ghats. Are they just trying to get in on the action or is the Ganges sacred to all three religions? I asked a few questions but never really got a comprehendable response.

After our Mumbai experience we decided to go for a Middle Eastern Dinner. It lived up to the fabulous meals we had in Mumbai and two weeks of not getting sick had convinced Nat that this time it was safe to eat the salad. Not so. The first of many dashes to the bathroom was somewhere around 3am and they didn't stop until 4pm after a pre train round of medication. With a 12 hour trip ahead we needed to use all the ammo we had. Numerous tablets and powders later all was sorted - at least temporarily. Unfortunately it didn't give us too much time to see Varanasi. Nat gave me orders to go and take a boat trip by myself. Reluctantly I left my sick wife and drifted along the Ganges. It was amazing. Even though I had walked the same stretch the previous afternoon, drifting past and watching the hive of activity on the shore was spellbinding. At the same time there was a kite festival and with the winds blowing the kites out over the river it was an enchanting afternoon.

Our run of good luck with the trains ran out that evening. We got to the station for a 9.20 train. At least the station signs are realistic with the train time, train name, departure time and how late it is appearing on every sign. You get the feeling big delays are part and parcel of train travel in India. Ours was only one hour late apparently. Two hours late. Three hours late. Four hours late and with the temp dropping by the minute our train finally arrived. 14 hours latter we arrived in Siliguri, not our final destination. A quick rickshaw and jeep later we were half way up the hill to Darjeeling at a place called Kurseong. One of the truly helpful people we have meet thus far helped us wander around the boarded up town trying to find reasonable lodging. Once we had accomplished this it was time to hit the snooze to get ready for our 5.20 wake up call.

The Darjeeling Toy train runs from Siliguri to Darjeeling everyday and takes up to 9 hours to make the climb. We had decided to catch an alternative toy train which is basically the locals version. Taking workers and school kids up the mountain in the Old School Darjeeling express. The longer train is Diesel powered where as our locomotive was a fine old steam powered beast stopping every few Kms to fill up the water tank and to empty the ashtray below the furnace. This was a perfect opportunity to get out and check out the inner workings close up but also a good chance to get as close the the heat as possible. Apparently the weather is very very unusual as DJ is normally a mild place getting down to 5 or so at night and up to 10 during the day in winter. Not so this year its hovering on the bad side of 0 and there is a fog permanently hung on us and the surrounding mountains. The main attraction of DJ is the view and without it its like Disneyland without the rides. Still lots to do but the main attraction is currently out of order. On the plus side having an open fire to warm yourself by in your room is very tidy indeed. It has also been very cool experiencing the Nepalese and Tibetan influences in this region.

One more day here and then we head north into Sikkim (which is also all about the mountains) With a bit of luck the clouds will lift and we will get our first good look at the Himalayas!